Seeing Esther's blood nose, Yvonne immediately lost her spine and had to lay down on the bench in Javed Babu's travel agency on the edge of Connaught Place. Thus, began what turned out to be a very pleasant 'Day Two' of the India adventure.
As we pulled up to Javed's place to conduct business (i.e. hand over money for the trip and received hotel vouchers in return) Esther announced her nose was ableed. Yvonne quickly responded to the call with a Huggie's wipe and ushered Esther, who had instant recovery, into the office. But Yvonne turned pale and within a few seconds was laying, stretched out on the bench must to the consternation of all except Javed and his staff who continued talking and cracking lame jokes.
After an hour or so business was over, money in Javed's hands, confirmed itineraries in ours and off we marched to Hira Sweets in search of peda. We found none but substituted burfi and gulab jamuns instead. Javed kindly gave us use of a car and driver (complimentary) for the day and within a few minutes we found ourselves in front of Central Cottage Industries for a 'just have a look'.
Quickly captured by Team Kashmir, we were ushered down stairs and for the next 45 minutes made to admire, all agog, the indescribable beauty of Kashmiri carpets, wool and silk. The Catos eventually succumbed and purchased a mid-size tribal design. The Rabe's admired but knew with 18-120 similar items rolled up in the garage, it was not a high priority item.
Lunch at Movida, which our driver informed us 'was very popular these days', followed. Swankly decked out in red velveteen and low lights we occupied a large circular booth at the very top of the stares and proceeded to order. A mix of Italian, (for the kids), Indian and Chinese (for the adults) was ordered after some confusion about whether the bolognaise sauce would be too spicy and hot for the kids. That was dropped and a club sandwich ordered but quickly changed back when the kitchen informed us the bolognaise sauce was indeed, harmless to young taste buds. The food was (again) tasty and plentiful, which made everyone happy and ready for the afternoon's activity.
Raj Ghat, is the sprawling, quiet green hillock where Mahatma Gandhi was cremated in the south of Delhi. Similar to Arlington Cemetery it has become a secular-sacred place for Indians and international visitors to pay their respects to the great man who is still officially (but probably not popularly) regarded as the Father of Independent India. The place itself is a simple black plinth upon which an eternal flame burns and roses, gladiolas and other petals are laid. A steady stream of mostly lower middle class or rural Indians from all parts of India stroll by, bowing their heads in respect or standing to have their photos taken.
Kevin too got into the mood.
Esther grabbed a handful of pamphlets with the intention (suggestively provided by Jen) to hand them out to passersby at the entrance in exchange of $2 a piece. She held on to them throughout the visit but at the moment of truth baulked and abandoned her clutch of documents to Dad. Before we exited the site, several Indians with cameras insisted upon posing with Mose or Esther and tweaking their cheeks in delight.
In the large parking lot across the road from Raj Ghat we happened upon our first snake charmer. With the wail of his been (fife) he opened the wicker basket which revealed a largish but equally sluggish cobra. After flaring his hood to reveal the famous smiling face, the poor reptile seemed unable to do anything else. The charmer waved his fist in its face but it didn't strike. It didn't even attempt a strike. It stood as still as the string in a swami's rope trick. The upside was everyone was able to tentatively pat the legless creature before he was put back into the basket.
The final stop of the day was CYMK bookstore and cafe run by an old school friend of Nate's in Defence Colony. Kiran and her family founded Roli Books 35 years ago; it is now the premier producer of coffee table/photographic books in India. CYMK is a stunning bookstore of wonderful and elegant books on all aspects of Indian culture. Kiran treated the gang to coffees, brownies, lemon cake, chai and raspberry coolers. A very nice high tea indeed, with a few memories of old Woodstock days and friends thrown in.
We got back to Lutyen as the sun set. Mose Esther and dad played a final few overs of cricket in the garden before a delicious homemade vegetarian dinner of karhdi, vegetable curry, chapatis, achaar and gulab jamuns! The kids didn't make it beyond the soup and the adults were all asleep by 930!
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